There's a major paradox in France: the Chinese fashion platform Shein has 25 million active users in the country (approximately 36% of France's total population), making it one of its main markets in Europe, along with the United States, Germany, and the United Kingdom. However, the French government wants nothing to do with the company and its products. In the last five months, Shein has had to pay over €190 million in fines for deceptive business practices and violations of user privacy. Added to this is the recent controversy surrounding the sale of sex dolls with childlike features, which has alarmed child rights organizations. Furthermore, French authorities have repeatedly questioned the damage the fast fashion industry is causing to local businesses and the environment. Despite all this, Shein has decided to open its first physical store in Europe right in the heart of Paris, occupying the sixth floor of the iconic BHV Marais, one of France's most emblematic buildings. The opening witnessed a stark contrast in opinions about the brand: on one side, a long line of people—some since 6 a.m.—waited for the doors to open; on the other, dozens of people protested in front of the building against Shein and everything she symbolizes. The Prime Minister of France calls for the suspension of the platform Within hours of the opening, the French government ordered the temporary suspension of Shein's digital platform. The measure, spearheaded by Prime Minister Sébastien Lecornu, was a direct reaction to the controversy generated by the sale of illicit products such as child-like sex dolls and bladed weapons. Lecornu didn't mince words and described Shein's operation as a threat to republican values. For his part, Industry Minister Sébastien Martin denounced an “aggressive strategy that attacks our values,” while Yann Rivoallan, president of the Fédération du Prêt-à-Porter Féminin (Feminist Ready-to-Wear Federation), was even harsher: “Shein has already lost. Its strategy was to use the crowd effect to quell the controversies and pretend it was representative of the French, but the reality is quite different.” Faced with the pressure, Shein announced the temporary suspension of third-party product sales on its French platform, assuring that it would review “compliance with national regulations” to guarantee “the highest standards of consumer protection.” The population, divided While inside BHV the red carpet was being rolled out for the Chinese retailer, outside the store, activists, environmental groups, and children's rights organizations demonstrated, chanting “Shein, no thanks,” with banners demanding protection for children, not fast fashion. Flags from China's Xinjiang region were even seen, in protest against the alleged use of forced labor. Across the street, the line of shoppers remained steady. Young people, teenagers, and middle-aged women had been waiting since early morning, either out of pure curiosity or to take advantage of the gifts promised by BHV. "Shein is cheaper," some repeated. Other customers, however, added, "It's not cheaper than H&M or Zara," and pointed out that they were there more for the promotions than out of any real desire to shop.

An Ipsos poll cited by the Fédération du Prêt-à-Porter Féminin reveals that 70% of French people support taking action against Shein. Even so, 25 million active users in the country show that the French relationship with the brand is anything but simple. 6,000 Items and Aggressive Discounts With over 1,000 square meters and 6,000 items of women's, men's, children's, sportswear, and accessories, Shein has deployed its entire fashion arsenal on the sixth floor of the BHV Marais. According to the store's team, the garments were "carefully selected" from the millions of items offered on the online platform. Price remains one of its strongest selling points, with items ranging from €15 to €100 for coats. However, be aware that there are no €2 T-shirts like on the website. “We don’t sell Shein T-shirts for two euros here,” argued Frédéric Mérlin, president of the Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), owner of BHV. According to him, brick-and-mortar retail operates under different conditions and cannot offer the same discounts as online channels. Furthermore, for opening day only, the department store offered a significant incentive: for every purchase, customers received a gift certificate for the same amount spent. In other words, if you spent 30 euros, you received another 30 euros in voucher form, which further fueled the already long lines that formed early in the morning. Adding another layer of controversy to the matter, the agreement between Shein and BHV has led Galeries Lafayette to sever ties with the Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), resulting in the end of their partnership for seven department stores across the country.